When the Grainger Market opened in Newcastle in 1835, there was a huge banquet to celebrate, with notable men of the city, like builder Richard Grainger and architect John Dobson, on the guest list.
Meanwhile the women stood on, looking down from the balconies as the men filled their bellies.
Nearly 200 years on and this historic Grade I listed market has become a real foodie destination for everyone to enjoy — from Korean, to Cuban, Spanish to Sri Lankan cuisine on offer between 9am and 5pm from Mondays to Saturdays.
Today I have joined a tour which showcases just that.
Brainchild of Amy Whitfield, the award-winning Triple A Food Tours has been running for just over five years. Earlier this year Amy was awarded Silver at the Visit England Tourism Superstar awards, having won the regional equivalent.
She says her business is all about promoting the best food finds of the region, as well as giving people an unforgettable experience. “It’s all about making memories,” she tells me.
She was inspired to set up her own business by a trip to New York with her husband over a decade ago. Walking tours — including food tours — are so popular there and give a real insight into local culture. Amy says somewhere between eating lobster with a hammer in the meatpacking district and visiting a dedicated mozzarella cheese bar, she “fell in love with the concept”.
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The idea stayed in the back of her mind for years, especially having realised there was nothing like it in her hometown of Newcastle. It wasn’t until she was on maternity leave that she found the right moment to give it a go. When she started weighing up going back to work and juggling childcare, she decided it was time to take the plunge.
“Some people thought I was mad” Amy tells me, “I was on a good wage at work — but it didn’t make my heart sing. I wanted to do something I was passionate about.”
And she hasn’t looked back. She now runs a range of regular food tours in Newcastle, Durham, the Ouseburn, along the Northumberland coast, and most recently, in Edinburgh. She started out solo but now employs a team of nine tour guides, running 11 tours a week.
Amy’s enthusiasm is infectious — “I just love the North East — we have some great independent businesses pushing out some brilliant food — whether it’s street food in the Grainger Market or Michelin starred restaurants — we’ve got it all.”
Amy calls it a “local and sustainable culinary tour” and only partners with independent businesses who use local and sustainable produce. This was really important to her, and when it comes to the Grainger Market she loves how the traders themselves support each other as well.
Which brings us to our first stop of the tour, King Baby Bagels — New York style bagels which are baked on site twice a day. We tried “The O.G.” — smoked salmon and cream cheese — accompanied by freshly squeezed orange juice, made with fruit from another Grainger Market trader Muers & Son. “When you buy from one business you’re buying from another as well,” Amy points out.
Next is Dumpling and Bun who sell traditional steamed Chinese dumplings with a range of fillings — my favourite were the pork and celery. I must admit I’m a regular here, as is my three-year-old son. Last time we were here he polished off 10!
Our third stop — Lindsay Brothers Fishmongers. I have to confess I’m a bit wary of oysters (don’t ask) but these were delicious, simply served with a squirt of lemon. You don’t have to take my word for it — apparently, they are a favourite of Hairy Biker Si King.
Next was a very meaty selection from Geordie Bangers — a slice of pork pie, a sausage roll, and of course a sausage — a plate of guilty pleasure if ever I did see one.
The vegetarian punter on the tour had an interesting selection from Matthews’ Cheese instead, including charcoal cheese. I had a little taste and unsurprisingly, I loved it all.
Our final food offering was a light bite from Snackwallah, a vegan Indian street food dish called pani-puri. We washed these down with a selection of beers from Firebrick Brewery — I had the Giuseppe pale ale which went down very nicely indeed.
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We saw and learnt a lot on the way — hearing about big plans for the Grainger Market after a recent £9m grant, seeing The Weigh House (we definitely did not go in and weigh ourselves, however amazingly people still do) and having a quick browse at the very first M&S Penny Bazaar.
The food tour made me try things I wouldn’t usually — not that I’m a fussy eater but I do tend to stick to my favourites. With the variety of cuisine that Amy showcases (and she works with other market traders as well of course) there really is something to suit every taste.
I could tell just how much Amy loves her job, and she admits from the beginning that what she enjoys most is the social side. “There’s no script” she tells me, “you never know where the conversation might end up”. As a group of six we enjoyed lots of chats and laughs along the course of the two-hour tour.
Of course, for Amy there is also the perk of being able to spend more time with her family, which can be a real challenge for so many working parents. She proudly tells me that she feels she hasn’t missed out — sports days, nativity plays — she’s been there.
But Amy’s not planning on slowing down any time soon. She has already started a regular tour in Edinburgh but hopes to go even further afield, alongside expanding into other areas of Newcastle like Heaton and Jesmond.
The Grainger Market tour is the most budget-friendly at £30 per person, but the average price is £70 for a half day tour, and at the top end Amy and team offer an all-day private vehicle Northumberland tour for £140.
I love how Amy champions independent businesses and how much she does for local tourism. I think we all need to be a bit more like her — supporting small shops, restaurants and cafes where we can, and shouting about all we have here in the North East rather than taking it for granted.
For more information on Amy’s Food Tours, visit the website.
